Prin vama de la Siret ajungi de la Darabani la Cernăuți în cam două ore. Prin cea de la Racovăț drumul e chiar mai scurt, putându-se apropia de numai o oră. E drept că timpului petrecut pe drum i se adaugă uneori chiar și câteva ore petrecute în vamă, dacă ai ghinionul să urmezi unor comercianți prea dornici de câștiguri rapide, care își îndeasă mărfuri dubioase în microbuze.
Mulți români de pe graniță au ca principală sursă de venit comerțul cu bunuri cumpărate în Ucraina și vândute apoi în România. Unii fac asta de 20 de ani, alții s-au apucat de curând. Au învățat ucraineana de bază, așa cum și mulți dintre târgoveții de dincolo au agonisit în timp destule cuvinte românești încât să se poată înțelege cu cumpărătorii. În bazarul de la Cernăuți poți găsi literalmente orice, iar prețurile sunt cu măcar 10-20 de procente mai mici decât în România. Despre acest bazar se spune că ar fi cel mai mare din Europa, dar, chiar și așa, Cernăuțiul ascunde multe locuri cu mult mai interesante.
În evul mediu, după ce tătarii au distrus cetatea Țețina de pe Prut, supraviețuitorii au decis să întemeieze o nouă așezare, de data aceasta pe malul celălalt, mai ușor de apărat. I-au spus Cernăuți, nume cu care apare și în prima atestare documentară, într-un act oficial emis de Alexandru cel Bun în 1408.
Orașul, cel mai mare dintre toate cele traversate de Prut, este un amestec fermecător de istorie și contemporaneitate. Centrul său vechi, întins pe o suprafață impresionantă, este împânzit de clădiri frumoase și atent restaurate și de monumente pline de semnificație.
La Universitatea din Cernăuți, fondată în 1875, au studiat o mulțime de personalități, de la Ciprian Porumbescu la părintele Stăniloaie. Cei mai în vârstă dintre dărăbăneni și-l vor aminti cu siguranță pe părintele Tartacan, cel care a slujit în biserica veche din Darabani vreme de câteva decenii la finalul secolului trecut și care și-a făcut, la rândul său, studiile la Universitatea din Cernăuți.
Clădirea universității a fost construită de Josef Hlavka, unul dintre cei mai importanți arhitecți ai vremii. Hlavka a mai proiectat Spitalul din Praga și Opera din Viena și a înființat Academia de Artă și Știință din Cehia.
Clădirea universității adăpostește sălile de cursuri ale mai multor facultăți, dar și o biserică de toată frumusețea, cândva sediu al Mitropoliei. Aici, în Sala Diaconală, Iancu Flondor și Sextil Pușcariu au făcut, în 1918, mult așteptatul anunț al unirii Bucovinei cu România.
Dacă te străduiești îndeajuns vei găsi în Cernăuți și casa lui Aron Pumnul, renumitul dascăl al lui Eminescu. Pentru că adăpostea celebra bibliotecă a învățătorului, cu primele cărți care l-au hrănit pe elevul Mihai Eminovici cu poezie și cu limbă română, mulți consideră că această modestă locuință este un adevărat sanctuar al spiritului românesc, deși ea nu se mai află între granițele administrative ale țării.
În anul 2011 am găsit această casă abandonată. Pe statuia lui Eminescu, așezată atent în mijlocul curții, se cățărau buruienile. Parcă și-ar fi dorit să o ascundă, ca trecătorii să nu bănuiască ce locaș bogat stă astăzi, într-un mod incredibil, descuiat și nepăzit, în mijlocul unui oraș de aproape un sfert de milion de locuitori. Am aflat că ultimii locuitori ai casei au refuzat ani de-a rândul să o elibereze și că, „pesemne”, urmează să fie în sfârșit luată în primire. De cine, încă nu se știe.
Mai simplu de găsit în oraș e școala în care a învățat Eminescu. Ea se află în centrul vechi, printre alte câteva sute de clădiri impresionante, pe care le puteți admira în galeria foto de mai jos.
Lista obiectivelor turistice din Cernăuți este cu mult mai lungă. La fel și cea a personalităților care s-au născut acolo sau pe care orașul le-a găzduit în anii de vârf ai creației lor. Cutreierând Cernăuțiul vei da peste mărturii ale trecerii pe acolo a lui Grigore Vasiliu Birlic sau Gala Galaction, dar și a altor oameni de mare valoare.
O zi în Cernăuți se poate încheia cu o plimbare pe bulevardul Olga Kobyleanska, un corso al tinerilor și ai celor în vârstă și un veritabil argument pentru reafirmarea comparației dintre capitala Austriei și Cernăuți, căruia i se spunea în epocă Mica Vienă. Bulevardul este unul exclusiv pietonal și te poartă printre clădiri lucrate la milimetru, de la Primărie și până la Mitropolie. Stând la oricare dintre terasele sau restaurantele de pe Olga Kobyleanska poți lua pulsul unui Cernăuți modern și plin de vivacitate. Un Cernăuți în care, atunci când ceri o bere specifică locului, ți se oferă una pragheză. Un Cernăuți confuz încă în privința identității sale naționale și tocmai de aceea atât de fascinant.
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